Tianxianglou -- Hangzhou

Tianxianglou (天香樓), recently relocated to the newish Zhejiang Hotel in central Hangzhou, literally means “Pagoda of Heavenly Fragrance.” It is another pre-communist icon serving traditional Hangzhou fare. I came here to try two other famous Hangzhou dishes: Dongpo Pork and Shrimp with Longjing Tealeaves.

Dongpo Pork (東坡肉; dong▪po▪rou), named after the Song poet and the dish’s creator Su Dong▪po (蘇東坡; 1037-1101), is a sebaceous square of pork belly (bacon) slowly simmered in soy sauce, rock sugar, and cinnamon bark. Rich and sweet, soft and tender, it is the absolute dream of the meat lover. The connoisseur’s take on the dish is to first gather a whiff of the aroma. Dark and brooding, the scent is both sensuous and alluring. Then, breaking off a piece of the pork with your chopsticks, let the meat melt in your mouth and savor the contrasts of the firm skin, soft fat, and tender meat.

Shrimp with Longjing Tealeaves (龍井蝦仁; long▪jing▪xia▪ren) is light and ethereal—a complete 180 from the dark-and-brooking Dongpo Pork. Freshwater shrimp, which turn white when cooked, are stir-fried with a locally grown green tea called Longjing, also known as “Dragon Well.” The tea adds a bit of bitterness and nuttiness into the dish, which combined with the delicate and sweet flavor of the shrimp make this an instantly likeable dish.

I also ordered a dish of steamed stinking tofu with mature amaranth stems. I had never seen this dish before, so I asked the waitress about it. She explained that this is a classic peasant dish from the surrounding countryside. Stinking tofu, as the name suggests, stink because it is fermented like blue cheese. And when it’s steamed, it stinks more. Mature amaranth stems are so tough that the body cannot digest them. You are supposed to just chew these stems, suck up the creamy pulp, and then spit out the fibers. They have a slightly smoky flavor that can stand up to the brashness of the tofu.

To sop up all the juices and flavors of the dishes I ordered, I also got some steamed black wouwoutou made from buckwheat flour.

Tianxianglou is located at the Zhejiang Hotel, 447 Yan▪an Road.
浙江飯店 -- 杭州市延安路 447號